The burnt-out ends of smoky days
I am overwhelmed with gilt. Every sinner and saint in Christendom must be depicted somewhere in the painting or the statuary of the cathedral at Ourense. Santiago Matamora was there, of course, but he wasn't part of the guided audio tour.
I have to recommend the Taperia O Toxo at Xunqueira. Excellent menu for €12 included wine, a liqueur, and the best ensalada mixte i have ever had. And they open for breakfast at seven.
It was an easy walk today in the soft Sunday morning light along a string of villages to the outskirts of Ourense. Then I had to climb again to get the old city. I am staying in a former convent, an albergue, run like all the albergues in Galicia, by the province, rather than the municipality.
Pepe is still ahead of me. I am guessing that he smokes Chesterfield. There seems to be an empty packet every twenty buts or so. He, or the person responsible, is ignoring a plea posted in one of the albergues for pilgrims to respect the environment and not leave their buts along the way.
I have a dilemma and a bit of a logistical problem. My dilemma is whether or not to follow my five-day itinerary to Santiago as planned, or to walk it in four days in order to have a day in the town before I leave. The logistical problem is how to work around an albergue that has been closed at A Laxe.
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