Go west, young man, go west
I walked out along a gravel road in the early morning sun. In recent days my shadow stretched out across the field to my left, but today, for the first time, it marched in front of me. It was truly a wonderful morning: rambles of brambles on one side, lavender bushes on the other, young poplar trees just leafing out.
It was rather a lonely night in the municipal hostel, a cold and gloomy building with an electric heater that didn't work, and radiators that remained obstinately cool.
You will have gathered that I am walking west. Yesterday, I was leaning towards continuing north, but last night I dreamt that I was heading west to Santiago, so, this morning, I paused for a moment, and then headed for Ourense.
The soft dirt roads easy on my feet, I passed by green pastures, ploughed fields, last year's stubble, and freshly planted crops. Then I left the plain and climbed into rolling hills, with the typical prickly oak shrubs and the sage white rose, not yet in bloom, and then suddenly I descended into a valley towards a reservoir.
I crossed a bridge, and then had the option of taking a path around the water or continuing along the road. I chose the path, but turned back after having to clamber over some rocks. Too risky with a backpack. Back on the highway for a few kilometres, and then the dirt roads again into Foramontanos de Tabara. After a very pleasant morning's walk, the last seven kilometres into Tabara were tiresome, as the way had been interrupted by he construction of a high speed rail line.
At Tabara there is a fine Romanesque church. Unfortunately, I was unable to visit it.
I am staying at a simple albergue one kilometre out of town. I am not alone. The Germans, Michael and Jorge, have arrived, and another German as well. There is also an Italian pilgrim and a Spanish cyclist.
For the hospitalero, his job is a calling. He cooks our meals and does our washing. It's a simple but homely place with only one drawback: his music. It seems he must have something playing in the background, a kind of mindless beat, an annoying elevator music. But he provided an excellent fried rice dish for supper.
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