Day 9. September 22, 2015. Pobena to Castra Urbiano. 24 kms

Break, break, break,

On thy cold grey stones, O sea,

And I would that my tongue could utter

The thoughts that arise in me.

I spent a reasonably good night at the alberge, despite the close quarters. A fairly late arrival, I was relegated to a top bunk, but fortunately I only once had to make the dangerous descent during the night. And I was next to the window, so I controlled the airflow. 

I left the hostel and popped into a bar for breakfast. I have to say that I think the Spanish breakfast is superior to the French. Not the croissants, I find them heavy and sticky. But I love the tortillas. And I think the coffee is better as well. For my grand cafe, I've learned to ask for a cafe solo doble, a Spanish oxymoron.

I climbed a long flight of steps, and as I neared the top I could hear the roar of the surf. And there it was. The bay was in front of me. A lone figure was strolling on the beach, and the waves were rolling in. A few ships were in the offing, waiting to enter the port at Bilbao. For five kilometres I continued along this magnificent coastal path, gorse to the left of me, green, brown, with the occasional yellow flower remaining, but on my right, the rolling grey sea with white foam where the waves were crashing on the rocks, and the seagulls crying overhead. And from inland, the plaintive call of the dove.

Ahead of me on the trail were some cows on pilgrimage. I looked carefully before I passed them. I have had some unsettling experiences with bulls.

Then it was a long sweep inland, although I found out later that I could have taken a short cut along the coast and saved five kilometres. But after a long climb, it was downhill and pleasant hiking along a disused railway line. And then into Castro-Urdiales which is reminiscent of San Sebastián with its long promenade, sweeping beaches, and posh hotels. The bay is dominated by the medieval castle and the Gothic church of Santa Maria de la Ansunciation.

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Also, as in San Sebastion, the alberge is on the far side of town. Once again it is full to the gills, and I am in a top bunk. And it's raining.